“It’s wedding season now. Most people get married between the end of the harvest and the beginning of Lent,” says our guide Girma, who had picked us up at the Lalibela airport. He points to a low-slung, temporary structure of interwoven leafy tree branches near the side of the road. “Oh look, there is a wedding going on now. Do you want to go?”

Well of course we do! After a quick check that it is okay to attend, we duck into the shaded structure and are soon surrounded by our hosts and a cluster of wide-eyed children dressed in their wedding finery. They lead us to a bench covered in brightly woven mats and animal skins, seat us, and immediately offer homemade beer and Ethiopian stew served on the ubiquitous, slightly sour injera bread.

The bride and groom will arrive later, traveling from her family’s farm. For now, the groom’s family and friends are cooking, pouring drinks, and sitting on the ground in small groups. We have dropped in on the first part of a centuries-old wedding tradition with ceremonies that remain unchanged.

What Made Lalibela Special

The same timeless theme continues throughout our visit to this town perched high in the hills in Ethiopia’s Northern Highlands. The past isn’t behind you here, rather it’s hand-in-hand with the present. The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela are a UNESCO World Heritage site, but a living, chanting, drumming one. The churches, carved out of the hilly terrain in the 12th and 13th century during the reign of King Lalibela, are still used daily by local Eastern Orthodox worshippers. Ancient traditions surround you, and then you hear a cell phone ring.

The churches themselves are as much sculptural feats as architectural ones. The stone was extracted away from solid rock to leave interiors replete with large rooms, huge columns and thick arches. There are 11 churches in all, with the most famous being Biete Ghiorgis (the Church of St. George), carved out of a rock hill from the top down.

The services are sensory spectacles that start at dawn. Singing, incense waving and drumming go on for hours. There are few seats, rather open spaces where people sit down, stand up, move around and, in some cases, drift off to sleep. Most worshippers are draped in a gauzy white cloth that covers the head and shoulders of both men and women during services. Pops of pink and yellow cloth denote monks and other religious officials.

During the times between services, visitors can explore the various churches, reaching them through a series of connected tunnels. Each church has its sacred objects, which the priests are happy to show us. From a seven-pound gold cross with a fascinating history (it was stolen in 1997 and returned through an agreement with a Belgian collector in 2001 after years of legal and diplomatic negotiation) to vibrant illuminated manuscripts, we are encouraged to take pictures and admire them.

We joke that we have no idea how they decide what goes into the museum and what they will casually bring out of the holy of holies when we walk in. There is no clear line here between what is preserved and what is in use, or between what is ancient and what is simply part of daily life.

Tips and Tricks

• Visitors can respectfully observe the services, which start at dawn and last for about three hours. The best visiting days are Thursday through Monday. On Sunday mornings, the busiest time, you can walk around viewing what’s happening in a number of smaller chapels before joining a service in a bigger one.

• It’s worth the hike up to the Asheton Maryam monastery. You can drive partway up the hill and then walk up through farmland. From there a path winds up along and then through a tunnel in the rock face. The views are unmatched and the manuscripts are like something out of a museum…only the priest keeps them in a tote bag.

• Bring shoes that have good traction, but that are also easy to get on and off. Wearing shoes is not allowed inside the churches.

Logistics

A good guide is critical.

• There is no way we could have understood what we were seeing, or what we were and weren’t allowed to do, without our guide Girma. Guides can be arranged though your hotel, which makes it seamless.

• Tourism has taken a hit in recent years due to instability and the potential for armed conflict, so the handful of foreigners who flew in on our flight were the extent of the tourists in town. We stood out everywhere. Once outside the churches, it’s difficult to move without attracting a crowd. Teenagers and kids especially thronged around us to practice their English. Girma helped create some space when we needed it. Being with him allowed us to both engage and step back and take a break.

Choose a hotel with a view.

• Lalibela is perched above the surrounding countryside, so it makes sense to pick a hotel that allows you to enjoy this privileged position. We really enjoyed the downtime at our hotel processing what we had seen that day and taking in the views.

• We stayed at the Maribela Hotel and recommend it. Our friend in Addis Ababa directed us to stay there and we were glad he did. It is clear why is it popular and highly rated. The staff is very friendly and add little touches every day. Our balcony looked out over a beautiful valley and sunsets were sublime. Weekends include performances from local singers and dancers.

Ratings

Scenery/Experience ★★★★★

This is a unique cultural experience that can’t be replicated. It felt like a gift to be there.

Activity Difficulty: ★★☆☆☆

It was easy for us to get around, but we noticed a few others having difficulty with some of the rock-carved stairs down into the churches. They have become worn down over the centuries and can be slippery in spots.

Logistics Difficulty: ★★★☆☆

So, here is the deal: the region that Lalibela is in, Ahmara, is a conflict zone. The US Department of State travel advisory currently says “Do not travel to the Amhara Region due to armed conflict and unrest.” We hemmed and hawed about going. Some friends in Addis said that it was fine to go as long as we flew in. One cab driver flat out told us we should not go. We were very glad we ended up going, as it was calm when we were there and the cultural experience was so rich. We saw plenty of armed soldiers, but the word was that they were keeping the place safe. You have to make that decision yourself, because you never know when conditions can change.

Logistically, once you arrive, things are straightforward with short drives, walkable distances, and hotels and guides that handle most arrangements. Getting comfortable with the decision to go is the hardest part.

Cost: ★★1/2☆☆

If you are already in the country, it’s an easy 1H15M direct flight from Addis that costs about $230 per person. Prices for our hotel were very reasonable ($99 for a double or $130 for a suite). Guiding services include your transport, which makes it easy. You can definitely do hotels and touring more on the budget side if you choose. The entrance fee to the churches is high by local standards (about $100 per person) but grants multi-day access and reflects the significance of the site.

Bonus Photos Because It Was Just So Visually Rich

Now that we are no longer working full time, I love being able to travel for months on end. There is only one issue: Our house sitting idle while we traveled for weeks at a time drove me crazy. More than that, it just seemed wasteful to have a perfectly good house sitting empty while we were gone, when one of our biggest expenses while traveling was lodging. If we could put the house to use—and maybe even make a little money—why wouldn’t we?

We looked at renting it out for a couple of years, but we love Seattle and our community. We wanted to be able to come back to our house in the summer and over the holidays. That led us to look at shorter-term rental options. We ended up honing in on HomeExchange.com and Airbnb.com.

Letting Go Is Key

You can’t do this without letting go a bit. If you feel that everything in your home is extra valuable or precious, this isn’t for you. If you can define a limited list of precious items, that’s another story with a solution. For us, the letting go felt liberating. Every trip to Goodwill was like freeing ourselves of extra weight. We were ready for our home to feel less like a museum of our lives and more like a living space that could welcome others while enabling us to do more.

The Options

HomeExchange.com

How it works: Home Exchange has a points system so you don’t have to match dates with a specific person for an exchange. When someone books your house, you get points immediately, allowing you to plan ahead and book your own stay elsewhere. (Organizing a simultaneous exchange without points is also an option.)

Where it shines: We have found it to be especially useful in Europe, where the system is well established and there are many options. Homes range from small urban apartments to sprawling countryside ramblers. Some people will even allow you to use their car for an extra fee. Because Europeans take longer holidays, the homes usually have a minimum exchange of five to seven nights and are sometimes available for weeks. The quality and location of the places we’ve stayed have been exceptional. You tend to have a closer relationship with the hosts and walk in their footsteps, given the more personal nature of the exchange.

Practical tips:

• Decide how much you want to clear out of your home; many people just leave a couple of empty shelves in the fridge and some closet space. Just make sure it is tidy.

• The system is very based on trust. People tend to leave their liquor and their nice stuff out, but that’s up to you. Because we were also Airbnbing the house, we stored those away.

• Check that your insurance covers home exchanges.

• We asked guests to pay a cleaning fee rather than clean the house themselves so we knew it would be clean for the next guests.

Airbnb
Setting your home up to Airbnb definitely requires more work. With our daughter out of the house, cleaning out closets and reducing our “stuff” was very appealing. We have a shed and a couple of closets we can lock for gear, clothes, and photo albums. Important documents and jewelry are in a safety deposit box.

Where It Shines: Cash. Although you are not banking “free” homestays like with HomeExchange, earning income off your house allows you to offset things like airfare, transportation and entertainment.

Requirements and tips:

• You have to register with your city and get a license.

• Check your insurance; most standard policies exclude short-term rentals and will require a rider.

• Understand tax implications; income is reported.

• Compare similar homes in your area to set pricing.

• Get professional photos taken.

Logistical Tips for Either Option

• Install a keypad front door lock connected to the internet so codes can be managed remotely.

• Use a smart thermostat for easy monitoring and control.

• Hire a cleaning service like Turno.com that automatically schedules cleans as soon as you get a booking.

• Have an in-town point person or “house manager” to check the house and handle emergencies. Our former dog sitter (RIP little Chai) agreed to check take on that role for us.

• Hold mail and put utilities on autopay; have someone manage mail if holds expire.

• Figure out your storage system and make it as easy as possible. We can get our house “Airbnb guest-ready” in about a day. We remove personal photos, put family keepsakes in a locked closet, stash the liquor, and clean out the pantry and fridge. Meaningful jewelry and documents basically stay in the bank safety deposit box.

• Let neighbors know what’s happening so they can alert you to anything unusual.

Before we left in May, a few people had already booked our house on Home Exchange, which allowed us to plan stays in Spain and France. Meanwhile, we crossed our fingers to see if Airbnb bookings would come in.

How It Worked Out

For Our Guests
It was fun to see our home through other people’s eyes. We ended up receiving bookings for our home for a couple of weeks of Airbnb stays and a couple weeks of home exchanges. Our guests loved the house and our neighborhood. We enjoyed giving tips and suggestions. Only one thing broke, the basketball hoop backboard, which was old and no one’s fault. The experience reminded us that our neighborhood, which is so familiar to us, is really great and we are lucky to be here when we aren’t traveling.

For Us
In terms of our house, Airbnb brought in cash, but honestly we equally preferred building up points for our Home Exchange stays. When booking places on HomeExchange we could stay in larger homes than we would book on Airbnb. They often had more comfortable living rooms, well-stocked kitchens, and better furniture overall, along with very engaged hosts. We loved exploring their neighborhoods, shopping at local stores, and trying their favorite restaurants.

Flexibility when booking on HomeExchange is key. At the end of our trip, we had a few unplanned weeks. Bergen was our first choice for a ten-day stay in Norway, but we were open to Oslo or shifting dates if needed. We were able to find a great house in Bergen by adjusting our dates to fit our hosts’ travels.

The Houses

With the exception of one stay (if a place looks dark in the photos, you can count on it being dark in real life), the houses we stayed in were wonderful. Many were the kind of places that you walk into and think, “Oh, these people are cooler than me.” From incredible art to chic design and thoughtful amenities, our home exchanges were one win after another. In Bilbao we had views of the Nervión river and the Casco Viejo from our deep L-shaped couch. The penthouse in Toulouse (yes, the elevator had a special key and opened into the apartment) featured a vintage album collection and a massive wrap-around patio. In Bergen, our home perched on a hill with views of mountains and fjords and incredible 11pm sunsets. And in Krakow, our 3,000+ square foot apartment had a huge kitchen for making meals after a day exploring the town.

Final Thoughts

Putting your house on Airbnb requires more work, but it brings in income. If you just want to dip a toe, start with Home Exchange. Either way, taking steps to share your home while traveling can be surprisingly rewarding. For us, we found that clearing out old possessions and putting our house to work while we traveled gave us a surprising sense of lightness along with the very practical benefits of income and flexibility. Our home became more than a place we returned to…it became part of the journey itself.

We didn’t expect a country to follow us home, but Norway did. Normally, we immerse before and during travel by reading, watching, and learning as we go, but this time proximity to Seattle’s National Nordic Museum and a bit of fortuitous event timing led to something different. For the month after returning, we found ourselves surrounded once again by Nordic culture, both nuanced and provocative. I’m sharing the books and films we discovered at these events because they are well worth exploring before or during your own travels or simply for a bit of armchair adventure.

Norway stood out not only for its rugged, mesmerizing nature that Becky described in her Stunning Cycling in Norway post, but for the contrast with the sublime touch of its architecture and design. The aesthetic is deeply intentional. Wood, stone, and glass are used with purpose, to invite in light and frame it. The result is unmistakably Scandinavian, simple spaces made cozy, a place to retreat from the elements while admiring them.

A Place that Cozies Up, then Provokes

The National Nordic Museum is constructed the same way, with wood, glass, clean lines, and natural light forming a quiet temple of hygge. It is a small, beautifully sculpted gem, the kind you can absorb in an hour or two without feeling overwhelmed, much like the Rodin or Picasso Museums in Paris or Frida Kahlo’s Blue House in Mexico City. For us, it is also wonderfully close, just a 15-minute walk down the hill in our Ballard neighborhood just north of Seattle, so we catch every new exhibit, lecture, and visiting artist that we can.

Behind its cool, minimalist surfaces, the museum’s permanent exhibit traces 12,000 years of Nordic history from Stone Age carvings to modern migration. The Norway section features carved wood, traditional textiles, and midcentury design shown beside fishing tools, and Viking boats.

While you’re drawn into quiet historical reflection, the curators are busy unleashing provocative and enigmatic art in the temporary exhibits and presentations.

A Writer Who Knows the Weight of His Tools

Lars Mytting, author of the Sister Bells trilogy, began his interview at the museum by responding to a question about his remote highland childhood parish, which he drew upon for the setting in his trilogy, “There were no roads to the village I grew up in, so if for some reason you found your way there, you either got married or got stabbed.”

His work blends history, folklore, and modernization. The trilogy follows generations of a family in the remote village of Butangen, where two church bells, cast in honor of conjoined twins, become symbols of unity. Across the three novels, The Bell in the Lake, The Reindeer Hunters, and The Shimmering Lake, faith, love, and progress grapple. Mytting’s compelling characters live close to the land and their Viking past, but their world is modernizing.

Mytting, a wry, lanky outdoorsman, described how he feels the need to do the things and hold the objects he writes about. He handled the weapons, farm tools, and antique household items featured in his stories. He even instructed his English language translator to do the same so she could understand the physicality of the objects in the writing. Perhaps it comes from his boyhood. He recounted how, when he was a bored eight year old, his grandmother revealed where her Colt .45 was hidden so he could inspect it. He was fascinated by its heft.

You absolutely should read the first book in the trilogy The Bell in the Lake to get hooked and watch an interview with Mytting online to appreciate his humorous storytelling style.

Note that another book of his is a unique one to consider as well, an obsessive investigation into local firewood chopping and stacking practices, titled Norwegian Wood. Of course, he felt compelled to cut and stack firewood himself in dozens of ways that he observed and documented.

The Square

While Mytting’s work explores how tradition and progress conflict in rural life, The Square exposes a similar tension in modern culture and art. The Swedish film, directed by Ruben Östlund and winner of the 2017 Palme d’Or, follows a museum curator whose life unravels after a petty theft and a disastrously misunderstood art exhibit. It is absurd and uncomfortable, Nordic precision turned on itself.

The main character’s downward spiral is as disconcerting as Östlund intended, but what felt most meta to us is that much of the story centers on a museum and can be seen as a critique of museums in general. And there we were, watching it inside a museum. For me, that speaks to the confidence of the National Nordic Museum’s programming, it is willing to take risks, and place itself under the same critical lens it invites visitors to use in its temporary exhibits.

The next two Nordic films on our watch list are Östlund’s Force Majeure (2014), a family drama exposing pride and vulnerability after a near-miss avalanche, and The Worst Person in the World (2021), an Oscar-nominated Norwegian romantic dramedy about a young woman in Oslo navigating shifting careers, included on The New York Times list of the 100 Best Films of this century.

Even back home, our recurring connection with Scandinavia reminds us that travel doesn’t end when the trip does.

We contemplated our precious treasure, a month of open travel time, to use after finishing our Camino Frances route and eyed the map.

The north coast of Spain, the Costa Verde, looked intriguing and unknown to us. It was like terra incognita, the blank spaces on old maps filled with sea monsters and mythical creatures, until a bit of research replaced those imaginings with everything we love to do outdoors: surfing, mountain biking, hiking, paddle boarding, and even another Camino.

We mapped a 750-mile route overland by bus and train from west to east, and decided to walk as much of the Camino del Norte as we could, always in the direction of Santiago. That meant taking a cab farther east from a town and walking back, or heading west out of a town on foot and returning by taxi. When we tried to explain to other travelers what we were doing, they looked puzzled, but Spaniards got it immediately since “section hiking” the Camino is common for them. Besides, we were living the motto we had learned, “Do your own Camino”.

And while the draw was the outdoor activities, what surprised us and resonated was the rich mosaic of cultures along the route. A short train ride would deliver us to a new region with its own language, food, drink, and traditions, a traveler’s nirvana.

The Cultural Landscape of Northern Spain

The northern coast of Spain is a patchwork of cultural regions, called autonomous communities, each with its own language, traditions, and character. Together they form one of the most diverse cultural landscapes in Europe, where bagpipes, wooden clogs, cider, pintxos, wine, and Romanesque churches all coexist within a few hundred miles.

Our route consisted of: Galicia => Asturias => Cantabria => Basque Country => La Rioja

We did not make it to Navarre, Castilla y León, or Catalonia on this trip, but we hope to return one day to see these autonomous communities as well.

Spain’s Autonomous Communities

In Spain, autonomous communities are the main political regions, each with its own parliament, government, and laws, and many recognize co-official languages alongside Spanish. The Basque Country and Navarre hold special fiscal powers that grant them greater autonomy. Autonomous communities may consist of several provinces or be a single province.

Galicia: End of the Earth

Spaniards often view Galicia as rainy, spiritual, and remote. Cape Finisterre was once thought to mark the edge of the known world, and later Galicia’s ports became departure points for fleets during the Age of Exploration.

We began our time in Galicia with a visit to the lovely Roman-walled town of Lugo. As our entry point back into Spanish cuisine, we went straight for octopus. Pulpo is abundant, and restaurants called pulperías serve it alongside other faire. The classic dish, pulpo a la gallega, arrives sliced topped with olive oil, sea salt, and paprika along with potatoes on a wooden board.

We also sought out pinchos (it’s pintxos in Basque as we’d later discover), small snacks usually served on bread and held by a toothpick. In Lugo generous portions are served free when you order wine or beer. In more touristed areas, pinchos are typically paid for separately.

Galicia surprised me linguistically. Having studied Portuguese decades earlier in Brazil, I was delighted to find written Gallego similar enough that I could read it with ease.

The Camino ends at the cathedral in Santiago, which we returned to several times during our two days there. Each visit meant squeezing through a brick arch where a bagpipe player was stationed. The first time his music felt atmospheric. By the third or fourth, the echo bounced so sharply off the walls that we were half laughing, half covering our ears, pursued by an audio haunting. Many love bagpipes, of course, but for us it was a memorable, if slightly relentless, introduction to the Celtic thread that runs through the north carried forward from tribes who settled here in the Iron Age.

Asturias: Cider and Celtic Clogs

Asturias is independent and proud, a region that never fully lost its identity under outside rule. The Battle of Covadonga, fought here in 722, is remembered as the spark of the Reconquista and a cornerstone of Spanish history. Asturians also see their community as different from the rest of Spain: greener, wetter, less crowded, and less commercial, a contrast they embrace as a strength.

Our first stop east was Oviedo, where the Camino del Norte reveals itself in stone markers winding through the city. We joined locals in La Gascona, cider poured theatrically from green bottles held high, splashing into small glasses alongside plates of chips.

In Cangas de Onís we crossed the Roman Bridge and did an epic all-day e-mountain bike ride through lofty mountains surrounding the town. Our timing coincided with a local festival, where Celtic music filled the streets and dancers in wooden clogs (madreñas) performed. The cheeses were equally distinct. Queso de Gamonéu, known for its smoky flavor, and Cabrales, famous for its intense blue-veined character, both carry PDO status, meaning they can only be made in certain parts of Asturias under set rules.

A full day trip to Picos de Europa offered stunning views but felt highly managed, with mandatory shuttles and fixed trails that made the hike feel more like a state park than wilderness. Still, it is an obligatory stop for its majestic scenery. At the shuttle pick-up point, the basilica and monastery of Covadonga perch wonderfully flamingo-like, elegant, towering, and proudly pink. Here in 722 the first Christian victory over Moorish forces marked the symbolic start of the Reconquista.

On the coast at Ribadesella, framed by its wide beach, we walked a ten-mile Camino stretch back into town, a gorgeous seaside route where we encountered only a handful of other pilgrims, a solitude that showed how much less traveled the Norte is compared with the Francés.

Cantabria: Surf and Chill

I’m going to short-change Cantabria’s description here and simply give it our highest endorsement because we adored Somo, a “this where we belong” beach town. We did not want to do anything else except surf and walk its gorgeous 5-mile beach, which we did everyday for 10 days. It is a great surf beach for all levels, which we describe in Top Surf Beaches for Beginners and Intermediates.

We did leave one day by taxi and walked the Camino back west 12 miles along cliffs and hidden coves. The water was a mesmerizing green, crashing against rocks and lapping sandy shores. It is the most beautiful Camino stretch we’ve walked.

You get to Somo by ferry from Santander. We may see you there, because we are going back and next time we plan to stay even longer.

Basque Country: Bilbao and San Sebastian

The Basque Country remains one of Spain’s most independent minded regions. Euskara (Basque) and Spanish are both official, and many people see the region as distinct, proud, and culturally rich, though its history with separatism has often created tension. The bombing of Guernica in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War is one of the most infamous aerial attacks on civilians in modern history, and together with the decades of activity by ETA and Bilbao’s industrial and cultural revival, it underscores this complex identity. Today there are still conflicting views within the region over its place as part of Spain or as an independent country, and the Basque cultural area also extends into southwestern France.

In a place famous for rain, our time in Bilbao started with a 95-degree heat wave, so we sought refuge in the most gorgeous air conditioned place we could think of, the Guggenheim, which somehow manages to exceed the hyperbolic descriptions. We saw the city by bike tour learning about bridges, architecture, and even playing Basque handball, then cycled independently to the coast and the town of Getxo.

Pintxos came alive in a new way here, as we did repeat visits to the Plaza Nueva wherebars lined a square, each counter stacked with small plates as visual as they were delicious. There are more pintxo bars throughout the old town, which was a wonderful place to stroll and people watch.

San Sebastian, an hour away, dazzled us further. Pintxos again, but this time paired with one of the most beautiful cityscapes in Europe. We surfed daily, waves fast and challenging, the beach lined with expert surfers while beginners stayed to the side. Cycling the boardwalk west along La Concha beach revealed yet another angle of a city that rivals Paris and Amsterdam for sheer beauty.

La Rioja: A Detour to Logroño

La Rioja is almost synonymous with wine in Spain. Logroño, its capital, lies at the heart of 65,000 hectares of vineyards under the prestigious DOCa Rioja label. The region produces about 10 percent of Spain’s total wine, and in 2024 nearly a million visitors toured its 600 wineries, making it the country’s most visited wine region.

Logroño was not on our itinerary, but when friends said they’d be there, we made the detour. The city buzzed with open-air pinchos and Rioja wine, but what made our stay unforgettable was the Night of San Juan. In the main square everyone wrote wishes on scraps of paper and tossed them onto a towering pile of pallets as “YMCA” and other earwormy favorites blared from giant speakers. Firemen rolled up, doused the pile with gas, and lit it into a roaring bonfire. Fire here symbolizes both destruction and rebirth, and by casting wishes or old troubles into the flames, participants hope to invite good fortune for the year ahead.

Onward to Toulouse

We boarded a bus toward Toulouse, crossing a border that felt like little more than a line on a map. The mountains and coastline continued, as did the traditions, languages, and flavors. Basque, Catalan, and Occitan cultures have long mingled across these passes, and we were eager to see how that blending carried into France. We’ll share our adventures there in an upcoming post.

While quite a few people who undertake a Camino de Santiago do so for religious reasons, many, like us, walk it for the camaraderie, the time in nature, and the slow travel aspect of being on foot. If that’s you, you might be as confused about this whole St. James thing as we were. We delved into our own questions and hope the answers help you.

Who was St. James?

• One of Jesus’ original twelve apostles (aka disciples)

• Part of Jesus’ inner circle, along with his brother John and the apostle Peter

• Known as “St. James the Greater” (because there were two apostles named James)

• According to the New Testament, he was the first apostle to be martyred when King Herod “had James, the brother of John, killed with the sword." (At the time, execution by sword typically meant beheading.)
  

What the heck does that have to do with Spain?

• Some early medieval sources describe James preaching in what is now modern-day Spain before returning to the Holy Land where he was killed around 44 CE.

• According to later medieval tradition, after his death his followers brought his body back to Hispania, landing on the coast of Galicia, and burying it in what is now Santiago de Compostela.

• In the 9th century, chronicles report that his relics were discovered in a cave in Spain, which sparked the first pilgrimages to Santiago.

• An even later legend from the 13th century says St. James appeared in the flesh on a white horse in 844 CE to fight to help the Christian army against the Moors. This conveniently reinforced divine support for the Reconquista and aligned James with Spain.

• He was declared patron saint (i.e. special protector) of Spain in 1630 by the pope, cementing his association with the country.

  

What is the relationship between James and the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela?

• The cathedral stands on the spot where St. James’ remains are traditionally believed to have been found and is where Catholics believe they are housed.
  

• When you finish your camino, you can visit the crypt under the altar to see the silver reliquary urn with these remains.
  

• You can also climb the staircase behind the high altar to embrace the statue of St. James (now more a quick touch on the shoulders due to COVID). This “apostle’s hug” expresses gratitude for a safe journey.
  

  

What are some of the symbols of St. James you’ll see on the Camino?

• Scallop shell: The most famous symbol, and one you will see every day on the Camino. These shells were said to have covered his coffin on arrival to Spain. The shell was also a practical travel tool, used as a cup or bowl and to mark pilgrims for hospitality or protection.
  

• Cross of St. James: A red sword-shaped cross seen throughout the Camino. It reflects his warrior-saint identity. My favorite way to see it is on the tarta de Santiago, a delicious moist almond cake dusted with powdered sugar leaving the shape of the cross.
  

• The White Horse: Refers to the legend of his appearance on a white horse during battle against the Moors.

Why were pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela so popular in the Middle Ages?

During the period from roughly 500 to 1500 CE, thousands of pilgrims risked their lives walking to Santiago de Compostela. Visiting St. James’ tomb presented benefits for the individual, the church, and the state.

• For the Pilgrim

  • Spiritual merit and forgiveness of sins

  • Opportunities for penance and devotion

  • Possibility of miraculous healing

• For the Catholic Church

  • Reinforced its spiritual authority

  • Created wealth through offerings and indulgences

  • Elevated its prestige in Christendom
    

• For the Kingdom of Spain

  • Boosted the economy

  • Forged European ties

  • Unified Christian territories under the Reconquista to reclaim Iberia from the Moors

Why is St. James called Santiago and not San Jaime in Spanish?

• “Santiago” comes from Hebrew “Ya’akov,” which became “Iago,” and later San (saint)-Iago. It refers to St. James.
  

• “Jaime” is also from Ya’akov/Iacobus but is a more everyday form of “James,” not as associated with the saint.

Whether you’re walking for faith, adventure, or personal growth, knowing St. James’s story makes you a more informed traveler. Ready to dive into the routes? Check out our Camino de Santiago Overview for tips and inspiration to start your journey.

The icy expanse of Antarctica has long stirred the imaginations of explorers, writers, and filmmakers. I remember reading classics like Endurance when I was younger, never imagining that I would actually step foot on the continent one day. I was in awe of the protagonists’ fortitude, even if they didn’t actually complete their original objectives.

Whether you're gearing up for your own travel to Antarctica or just love a good survival story, these books and films bring the White Continent to life in all its peril, beauty, and mystery.

Crossing the Drake Passage leaves plenty of time for reading and viewing. I actually preferred listening to audio versions of the books so that I could be taking in the scenery and listening to the story at the same time.

Each section is in my order of preference.

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Exploration Classics

Endurance: Shackleton’s Incredible Voyage by Alfred Lansing (1959)
The definitive account of Shackleton’s harrowing 1914–17 expedition, based on first-hand interviews. A gripping, vividly told survival story that’s hard to put down. Read this one if you are only reading one classic.

The Worst Journey in the World by Apsley Cherry-Garrard (1922)
A beautifully written, haunting account of Robert Falcon Scott’s doomed Terra Nova expedition, told by one of its youngest survivors. A cornerstone of polar literature.

South: The Endurance Expedition by Sir Ernest Shackleton (1919)
Shackleton’s own version of the Endurance story—more restrained and Victorian in tone, but a remarkable firsthand window into the heroic age of exploration.

The Voyage of the Beagle by Charles Darwin (1839)
Although not set in Antarctica, Darwin’s journal during his world voyage includes his time in Tierra del Fuego near Ushuaia. It sets the stage for the landscapes and wildness of the far south.

Modern Non-Fiction

The Quickening: Creation and Community at the Ends of the Earth by Elizabeth Rush (2021)
Part memoir, part climate meditation, this beautifully written book follows Rush’s journey to Antarctica as part of a scientific expedition to the Thwaites Glacier. As she contemplates becoming a mother, she reflects on the fragility of the planet, the power of community, and what it means to create new life in a time of global uncertainty.

Empire Antarctica: Ice, Silence & Emperor Penguins by Gavin Francis (2013)
This travelogue, which is also a meditation on isolation, was written by a doctor stationed at a remote British base. Evocative and philosophical—with a starring role for emperor penguins.

Swimming to Antarctica by Lynne Cox (2004)
An inspiring memoir from an open-water swimmer who conquered Antarctica’s frigid waters. Only the very end of the book is about her time in Antarctica, but the whole thing is a story of endurance, cold, and a fearless mindset. It will prepare you for your polar plunge.

Terra Incognita: Travels in Antarctica by Sara Wheeler (1996)
A thoughtful, literary memoir from the first woman to spend a full season in Antarctica with the British Antarctic Survey. Personal, poetic, and quietly funny.

Chasing Shackleton by Tim Jarvis (2014)
A modern adventurer’s attempt to recreate Shackleton’s legendary open-boat journey in original gear. Fascinating blend of history and high-stakes adventure. Also captured in film by PBS/Discovery.

Antarctica Fiction

Suddenly by Isabelle Autissier (2003)
A taut, psychological survival novel set in the Southern Ocean. Autissier, a solo sailor herself, brings depth and dread to this short, intense read. Makes you want to be sure you catch the zodiac back to the ship.

Where’d You Go, Bernadette by Maria Semple (2012)
This satirical novel, mostly set in Seattle, ends with a quirky but oddly affecting subplot in Antarctica. The film version, starring Kate Blanchett, offers some stunning visuals of Antarctica at the end.

Antarctica Station by A.G. Riddle (2021)
When a doctor is exiled to a mysterious Antarctic research facility, her struggle to survive both the elements and the secrets buried beneath the ice becomes a stark reminder of how unforgiving life on the frozen continent can be. Not great fiction, but entertaining.

In Cold Pursuit by Sarah Andrews (2001)
Set at McMurdo Station, this novel uses the protocols and pressures of real scientific life in Antarctica as the backdrop for a murder mystery. The extreme cold and lack of privacy add tension to both the investigation and the interpersonal dynamics. Not available on Kindle or Libby, so you’ll need to find a hard copy.

Films & TV Shows

Documentaries

Endurance (2024)
A groundbreaking new documentary from the directors of Free Solo. Blending restored footage, colorized images, and voice recreations, it chronicles Shackleton’s expedition and the 2022 discovery of the Endurance shipwreck—bringing the legend vividly to life. Better than the 2000 telling narrated by Liam Nelson.

Antarctica: A Year on Ice (2013)
A personal and breathtaking chronicle of a year spent at a remote research base. Time-lapse visuals of the polar seasons are unforgettable.

Encounters at the End of the World (2007, dir. Werner Herzog)
Herzog explores Antarctica’s surreal landscapes and eccentric researchers. A philosophical and visually arresting documentary that embraces the continent’s otherworldliness.

Films

March of the Penguins (2005) – Narrated by Morgan Freeman
A deeply moving and beautifully shot look at emperor penguin life during the harsh Antarctic winter. A nature film with emotional power and mass appeal.

Happy Feet (2006)
An animated musical adventure featuring penguins and Antarctic landscapes. Surprisingly detailed in its environment—great for families or a lighthearted watch.

The Thing (1982)
John Carpenter’s cult horror film set in an isolated Antarctic base. Not realistic—but the psychological effects of isolation in polar conditions ring true. We prefer the 1982 version to the 2011 “prequel” of the same name.

Short Viewing

BBC Earth: Frozen Planet (2011) – Episodes 5 & 6
Stunning cinematography, narrated by David Attenborough. These Antarctica-focused episodes feature dramatic animal stories and icy grandeur.

We lived in Amsterdam for two years as expats. Whenever people who planned to visit asked us for my list of top things to do in Amsterdam, I tagged on a recommended reading list. (Because most of my friends are nerdy like me.) Some of the book recommendations have been adapted for the big screen. I also threw in a few movies to give people something to watch before they departed or help pass time on the plane.

Each section is in my personal order of preference.

Non-Fiction

Amsterdam: A History of the World's Most Liberal City by Russell Shorto (2014)
If you read one book before your trip, make it this one. Insightful, accessible, and full of personality, Shorto explores how Amsterdam’s unique geography shaped its famously progressive values.

Why the Dutch are Different by Ben Coates (2016)
A witty and personal dive into Dutch culture, politics, and quirks—told through the eyes of a British expat who unexpectedly found himself calling the Netherlands home. Coates gave a TEDx talk in 2020 that mirrors the tone of his book. It can be found on YouTube.

In the City of Bikes: The Story of the Amsterdam Cyclist by Pete Jordan (2013)
Part history, part memoir, this book chronicles how Amsterdam became the world’s most bike-friendly city. Jordan’s obsession with cycling is infectious and will inspire you to take to the streets on two wheels.

The UnDutchables: An Observation of the Netherlands, Its Culture and Its Inhabitants by Colin White and Laurie Boucke (1991)
A sharp, humorous look at the often baffling norms of Dutch life. It’s dated in places, but still beloved for its honest and irreverent tone. You can find it on the bookshelf in most expats’ houses.

Anne Frank: The Diary of a Young Girl by Anne Frank (1947)
Essential if you haven’t read it yet. This intimate, day-by-day account of a young girl in hiding during WWII gives haunting context to a visit to the Anne Frank House. There are also two film versions (the 2009 BBC version is better) and a Netflix show narrated by Helen Mirren that bridges Anne Frank’s story with those of other young Holocaust victims.

Infidel: My Life by Ayaan Hirsi Ali (2007)
A powerful and controversial memoir by the Somali-born Dutch politician and activist. Her journey from strict Islam to outspoken secularism unfolds partly in Amsterdam.

Fiction

The Dinner by Herman Koch (2009)
A dark, satirical Dutch novel that captures a modern, uneasy side of the national psyche—set over a single tense dinner between two couples in Amsterdam. (The restaurant is on my favorites list.) The film version came out in 2017.

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Tracy Chevalier (1999)
Not set in Amsterdam, but evocative of the Dutch Golden Age. A quietly sensual, painterly novel that immerses readers in the world of Vermeer and Delft. Scarlett Johansson and Colin Firth star in the film version, an atmospheric adaptation of that captures the Golden Age mood. It should also inspire you to take the train to Den Haag to visit the painting in the Mauritshuis.

Grijpstra and de Gier Mysteries by Janwillem van de Wetering (first book 1975)
A wry, offbeat detective series featuring two philosophical Amsterdam cops. Set in the 1970s, it captures the gritty charm of a changing city. I fell in love with the humor and read the entire series. This was also made into a TV series in Dutch.

The Safekeep by Yael van der Wouden (2024)
Not set in Amsterdam, but one of the most buzzed-about Dutch novels in recent years. Set in the rural Netherlands in 1961, it follows a solitary woman whose quiet life is upended when her brother’s girlfriend comes to stay. It is a story of longing, buried guilt, and secrets that linger in the walls of an inherited house with a troubling wartime past. Atmospheric, unsettling, and beautifully written.

The Anatomy Lesson by Nina Siegal (2014)
A richly imagined novel that brings Rembrandt’s early masterpiece to life, weaving multiple perspectives to reimagine one pivotal day in 17th-century Amsterdam.

Tulip Fever by Deborah Moggach (2000)
A juicy historical novel set during the tulip mania of the 1630s. Love, deception, and art swirl together in a story that echoes Amsterdam’s past passions. A 2017 movie adaptation is also available, but it’s a bit over the top.

Films

Loving Vincent (2017)
A visually stunning, hand-painted animated film that brings Van Gogh’s artwork to life. The story explores the mystery around his death, told through characters from his paintings.

Tonio (2016)
Based on A.F. Th. van der Heijden’s memoir, this Dutch drama follows a couple grappling with the sudden loss of their son. It's emotionally raw and beautifully shot in Amsterdam.

The Fault in Our Stars (2014)
Part of this YA tearjerker takes place in Amsterdam, featuring real-life locations like the Anne Frank House and a canalside kiss. Sentimental but a popular cultural touchpoint, especially with Gen Z.

Black Book (Zwartboek, 2007)
A gripping WWII thriller about a Jewish woman infiltrating the Nazis in the Netherlands. Stylish, suspenseful, and a huge hit in Dutch cinema.

We’re avid readers, always packing more pages than socks. When it comes to Bhutan, while there are good books out there, we had to dig through a bunch to find the gems. What surprised us most? How entertaining and eye-opening the new films were. If you’re planning a trip to Bhutan, we suggest starting with a movie night, then picking out a few books to your liking. You’ll have more luck with memoirs than fiction.

The three recent films on our list are remarkably easy to watch despite the subtitles and offer rich view into Bhutanese life. All are entertaining, deeply human, and well worth your time, even if you never make the trip.

Films to Watch

Our favorite was A Yak in the Classroom followed by The Monk and the Gun. Both films are from the same director, Pawo Choyning Dorji.

Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom (2019)
Streaming: Apple TV, Amazon Prime
A gentle, humorous, and quietly moving film about a young teacher sent to one of the most remote schools on Earth. As he adjusts to life in a Himalayan village, Bhutan’s landscapes, values, and rhythms unfold through the eyes of an outsider who becomes slowly, reluctantly, transformed. It was Bhutan’s first Oscar-nominated film, and it's easy to see why.

The Monk and the Gun (2023)
Streaming: Apple TV, Amazon Prime
This sharp political satire is set during Bhutan’s transition to democracy in 2006. A lama sends a young monk to fetch a pair of guns, leading to an unexpected collision with a visiting American gun collector. Directed by Pawo Choyning Dorji (who also made Lunana: A Yak in the Classroom), the film balances comedy and reflection as it explores what Bhutan gains and what it gives up in its encounter with modernity.

Agent of Happiness (2024)
Streaming: Apple TV, Amazon Prime
A quiet and heartfelt documentary that follows Amber, a happiness inspector traveling Bhutan to administer its unique Gross National Happiness survey. This alternative to GDP measures progress through well-being, culture, environment, and governance. As a documentary, it can move a bit slow, however, it opens an insightful window into Bhutanese homes, work, values, and culture.

Nonfiction Books: Memoirs Lead the Pack

Beyond the Sky and the Earth by Jamie Zeppa (1999)
Married to Bhutan by Linda Leaming (2011)
These two memoirs have much in common: both are written by Western women who moved to Bhutan, fell in love (with the place and the people), and stayed. Zeppa’s book leans more literary; Leaming’s more conversational and humorous. Either is an engaging way to get a sense of Bhutan from a foreigner-turned-insider. You probably only need to read one, depending on your style. Or if you love the idea of foreign romance, you’re in luck, read both.

A Splendid Isolation: Lessons on Happiness from the World's Most Reclusive Nation by Madeline Drexler (2014)

Drexler examines Bhutan's unique approach to governance, culture, and spirituality, offering insights into how the country balances tradition and modernity while also acknowledging the challenges the nation faces as it opens up to the outside world. The book is part travelogue, part cultural study, and part philosophical reflection on what makes a society flourish.

Set Free by Emma Slade (2017)
The powerful memoir of a British investment banker who survived a traumatic event in Jakarta and later became a Buddhist nun in Bhutan. An unusual, spiritual, and very personal lens on the country.

A Field Guide to Happiness by Linda Leaming (2014)
A sequel of sorts to Married to Bhutan, this is a slim, friendly volume of bite-sized insights, practical lessons, and warm reflections on daily life in the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Fiction Titles to Consider

The Circle of Karma by Kunzang Choden (2005)
The first novel written in English by a Bhutanese woman. It follows Tsomo, a young girl whose life is shaped by hardship and spiritual searching. The book’s quiet pacing mirrors Bhutan’s landscape: layered, slow, and meaningful.

Dawa: The Story of a Stray Dog in Bhutan by Kunzang Choden (2006)
A playful, philosophical novel narrated by a one-eyed stray dog who roams Thimphu. Through Dawa’s observations, we get a glimpse of Bhutanese society, values, and contradictions.

Considering Travel to Bhutan?

We encourage you to make the journey. Bhutan offers something few places still do: a culture and landscape deeply preserved, where tradition and nature are part of everyday life. See our post Hiking Bhutan: A More Secluded Trek to Tiger’s Nest for an example of the amazing activities that serve up both nature and culture in ample quantities. It’s worth the time and expense to experience something truly different. These books and films are a good place to start to get a sense of that unique spirit from afar.

Notes for the Curious Traveler

Where to Find These Books
We're heavy users of the Libby app, which lets you connect your library account (in the U.S. and several other countries), then check out eBooks and audiobooks for free and read them on Kindle. Since it’s not currently possible to share links to books in Libby, we are providing the Amazon links here:

• Beyond the Sky and the Earth by Jamie Zeppa

• Married to Bhutan by Linda Leaming

• A Splendid Isolation: Lessons on Happiness from the World's Most Reclusive Nation by Madeline Drexler

• Set Free by Emma Slade

• A Field Guide to Happiness by Linda Leaming

• The Circle of Karma by Kunzang Choden

• Dawa: The Story of a Stray Dog in Bhutan by Kunzang Choden

During our wonderful two years living in Amsterdam, I kept a running list of my favorite things to do and see—especially for curious visitors who want to take in as much as they can in a short time.

I can’t tell you how many friends (or friends of friends) who are visiting the city have pinged me for my recommendations over the last few years. This is the list I email them. Now I am now sharing it with you.

Subscribe now

Museums Worth Your Time

Anne Frank House
Yes, you should go. And yes, you should get tickets now—they’re released two months in advance and sell out fast. It’s small and sobering and unforgettable. You’ll walk through the hidden annex in near silence, feeling the weight of the story that unfolded here.

Rijksmuseum
Rembrandt’s The Night Watch, Vermeer’s Milkmaid, Frans Hals’ vivid portraits—you’ll find all the stars of the Dutch Golden Age here. There are also works by more modern Dutch standouts like Van Gogh and Piet Mondrian. But the museum is huge and can be overwhelming. Book the one-hour guided tour and let someone guide you through the highlights, then loop back to linger wherever your curiosity takes you.

Van Gogh Museum
Beautifully curated and deeply human, this museum doesn’t just showcase Van Gogh’s paintings—it invites you into his mind. His letters, self-portraits, and struggles with mental health all feel close and alive here. Buy timed-entry tickets in advance and try to go early or late for a quieter experience.

The Six Collection
An extraordinary private art collection housed in an opulent residence. The Six family has been collecting art for generations (Rembrandt once painted a portrait of an ancestor). Visits are by appointment only, but if you can get in, it’s an intimate and unforgettable look at Dutch art and history. This is probably my favorite museum in the city. It is also featured in the book I recommend below, Amsterdam, a History of the World's Most Liberal City.

Fun Amsterdam Experiences

Cruise the Canals

Skip the big tourist cruises. Rent your own electric boat from Mokumboot—they're easy to learn to drive and a ton of fun to navigate between on-coming boats and under canal bridges. This is one of the very first things we ever did in Amsterdam and a go-to with visitors. Pack a picnic and enjoy your time on the water. Or opt to join a small, informal ride with Those Dam Boat Guys, who offer great conversation and local color along the canals.

Ride a Bike Along the Amstel

Rent a bike and follow the Amstel River out of the city. Stop at De Riekermolen, a windmill once sketched by Rembrandt. Grab a drink at Klein Kalfje or ride all the way to Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, a charming riverside town that feels like an escape into the countryside. This was the ride I took all my visitors on. So Dutch and so fun. (Just make sure the bike rental shop gives you the heads up on cycling etiquette - orderly Dutch rules are very in play in the bike lanes here.)

Explore De Pijp or Jordaan

Hop on a tram and explore these two distinct neighborhoods. De Pijp is eclectic and multicultural, with great street food and boutiques. Jordaan is quieter, artsier, and full of galleries, cafés, and canal house charm. (I love this Rick Steves audio walking tour of the Jordaan.)

Catch a Concert at Paradiso

For music lovers, a night at Paradiso is a must. Housed in a former church, this legendary venue has hosted everyone from The Rolling Stones to Amy Winehouse. During our time in the city we saw memorable shows from Jimmy Cliff, Lucinda Williams, Meghan Trainor and more. The acoustics are great, and the vibe is always electric in the small venue. Check the schedule ahead of time—it’s a fantastic way to experience Amsterdam’s vibrant music scene.

Food Experiences

Reypenaer Cheese Tasting Room
This is some of our favorite cheese in the country. They have discontinued their guided tastings, but keep hinting on their website that they are coming back. If you have the chance, the tastings are educational and delicious. Even just dropping in and tasting some of the samples is a great interactive activity for your first afternoon to keep you awake when you're jet-lagged and sleep deprived.

Foodhallen
A converted tram depot turned indoor food market. Good for groups and grazing, and a place to try such Dutch favorites as bitterballen (meh), poffertjes (much better) and stroopwafels (yum). One of the classic dialogs included in every “Dutch for Beginners” class includes a line about foreigners loving stampot (a bland Dutch stew). Not the case in our family, but worth trying for a classic Dutch dish.

Winkel 43
Their apple pie is iconic, and the café’s terrace is a perfect pit stop in Jordaan. Make sure to order it “met slagroom.” Close to Anne Frank House and a good place to sit and process what you have just experienced at the museum.

Vleminckx Sausmeesters
Near Spui and often debated as the best fries in Amsterdam—crisp, golden, and perfectly dressed in your sauce of choice.

Chipsy King
Still serving up hot, salty frites at multiple central locations. Not fancy, but solid and satisfying. We love the spicier dipping mayos.

Restaurant De Kas
Still one of the most unique farm-to-table dining spots in Europe, the restaurant is housed in a set of greenhouses where they grow their own produce. Elegant, creative, and seasonal. Reservations highly recommended. (A key scene from the novel The Dinner (below), takes place here.)

Beer Tasting

The Heineken Experience is pretty touristy, so I wouldn’t go out of your way unless you’re a real fan of the brand. For a more authentic Dutch beer experience, head to Brouwerij de Molen in Bodegraven. This craft brewery is well-known for its exceptional beers and offers a fun, informative tour with tastings of some of their best brews. The atmosphere is laid-back and local, giving you a much more genuine taste of Dutch brewing culture.

Other Museums to Visit

If you buy a Museumkaart, which offers admission to dozens of museums across the city, keep these smaller museums in mind as you explore. The beauty of the Museumkaart is that you can just pop in and take a quick look—or even visit the museum just to get out of the rain or use the restroom.

• Van Loon Museum – A peek inside a grand canal house once owned by a co-founder of the Dutch East India Company. The formal garden in the back is a hidden gem.

• FOAM (Photography Museum) – Small, modern, and always changing. Work by emerging photographers and provocative exhibits that challenge how you see the world.

• Huis Marseille – Another photography museum, but in a grand canal house. Beautiful interiors and thoughtfully curated exhibitions, usually much quieter than FOAM.

• Stedelijk Museum – If you enjoy modern art, the Stedelijk Museum is a must-see. It’s home to an impressive collection of 20th and 21st-century works and also features cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions.

• Our Lord in the Attic – A Catholic church hidden inside the top floors of a canal house. Built in the 1660s when public Catholic worship was banned, it’s an extraordinary space with a powerful backstory.

Where to Stay

Amsterdam has no shortage of beautiful hotels, but I recommend the ones below for character and a sense of place.

Ambassade Hotel
This welcoming, family-run 4-star hotel is spread across ten 17th-century canal houses, with 58 rooms. The location is ideal for walking almost anywhere, and the staff are famously helpful and warm. It also has a cozy library bar and lots of character at a gentler price point than some of the big-name luxury hotels.

Canal House
Stylish and intimate, this 23-room boutique hotel is housed in a row of 17th-century canal houses in the Jordaan. It's part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and offers sleek vibe.

Hotel Sebastians
This 34-room boutique hotel sits right on the Keizersgracht canal and mixes historic charm with dramatic, colorful interiors. It has a cozy bar and offers a lower-key feel at a reasonable price.

Mr. Jordaan
A 34-room boutique hotel with clever, minimalist design and a relaxed, friendly vibe. Tucked into the Jordaan neighborhood, it's a great value for the location and a perfect choice if you want something stylish but low-key.
Mr. Jordaan

The Dylan
Tucked into a historic canal house in the Nine Streets district, The Dylan offers an intimate five-star experience with just 40 rooms. It’s part of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, and the on-site Michelin-starred restaurant, Vinkeles, is a destination in itself. Perfect spot for a big splurge.

Notes for the Curious Traveler

Museumkaart
Buy it at your first museum visit—it’s a great value if you plan to visit 3+ museums and lets you skip lines.

Transportation
The trams are easy to use and often faster than walking across town. Buy a day pass or load credit on an OV-chipkaart.

Credit Cards
The Netherlands is primarily a debit card country. You’ll need a chip-and-PIN card for many machines (especially transit and small shops). Not everywhere takes credit cards without a chip, though big hotels and restaurants usually will.

The way I landed in Mexico City as an expat was a bit happenstance, not at all planned, so I was surprised by how much the city fascinated me. I didn’t know how long I’d be there, so I got very focused on seeing, learning, and reading everything I could.

Eventually I started a company where my business partner Ramón and my clients became my mentors. In my free time I spent countless hours solo, exploring the city on my own, avoiding other expats for the first year so I could learn Spanish. It was lonely at times, and during one stretch, it was the leanest I’ve ever lived, until we got the business going and I could earn a viable wage. Some gritty times for sure, but wow, did I level up through cultural immersion.

When friends told me they were coming to visit, I would send them a list of books to read so they’d have a better understanding of the city they’d be experiencing. That’s what this post is about—a reading list and other resources to explore before, during, and after your visit for deeper insights into the capital city now called Ciudad de México.

1. La Capital: The Biography of Mexico City (1988) – Jonathan Kandell

La Capital is a sweeping historical biography of Mexico City that captivated me with its vivid account of Tenochtitlán—the former Aztec capital and one of the world’s largest cities in 1500—built on a lake that once stretched across the 7,350-foot-high valley.

The Aztecs (Mexica), originally a migratory group, were granted permission to settle on a swampy island in Lake Texcoco in 1325 after years as mercenaries. To expand, they built chinampas, which were docks made of wood and reeds, then covered with soil, to host crops, trees, and buildings. This evolved into a network of canals for farming and transport, later engineered to include causeways, aqueducts, and dikes. Tenochtitlán grew into a thriving, canaled metropolis like a large version of Venice, but with verdant crops, adobe houses, and majestic pyramids.

Kandell goes on to relate the city’s transformation under Spanish colonial rule, the turbulence of the Mexican Revolution, and the city’s role as a cultural and economic center. He highlights key figures such as Moctezuma, Benito Juarez, and Frida Kahlo. The book also examines social classes and urbanization. Kandell provides a vivid portrait of this complex and rich city, which serves as an excellent introduction.

2. Aztec (1980) – Gary Jennings

While La Capital piqued my interest in Tenochtitlán, I wanted more detail of daily life, and Gary Jennings delivered with his compelling historical novel, Aztec. I never could get into Michener’s historical fiction tomes, but Aztec served up what I was craving— pre-Hispanic Mexican history with plenty of adventure. Jennings, an American who served as a war correspondent during the Korean War, lived in Mexico for 12 years doing research for the novel.

Aztec tells the story of Mixtli, an elderly Aztec scribe who recounts his life to Spanish conquerors. The novel vividly recreates the everyday life, customs, and beliefs of the Aztecs, along with their encounters with Hernán Cortés and the Spanish invaders. Mixtli’s journey—from a humble boy in a rural village to a respected warrior, merchant, and scribe—offers a deep, personal perspective on the Aztec world before and during the conquest. The novel is well-researched, with detailed descriptions of Tenochtitlán, food culture, religious rituals, and pre-Hispanic culture.

3. You Dreamed of Empires (2024) – Álvaro Enrigue

My interest in Tenochitlan was reawakened recently when Álvaro Enrigue’s Aztec Empire novel was published. Enrigue, born in Guadalajara, has lived much of his life in Mexico City and New York, where he now teaches at Hofstra. I binged the print version and then did the same with the audiobook. I’m planning to listen to it again in the original Spanish, which is a way of getting closer to the subject matter while improving my listening comprehension.

Enrigue takes a playful, offbeat approach to the infamous meeting between Hernán Cortés and Moctezuma, with a mix of historical fiction, magical realism, and satire. He paints Tenochtitlán as a surreal, awe-inspiring city on the brink of collapse, shifting perspectives to show Cortés’ ambition, Moctezuma’s cloistered rule, and the everyday people caught in the conflict. Power, fate, and colonialism loom large, but Enrigue doesn’t just retell history—he pokes at it, questions it, and flips it on its head. The novel challenges the other conquest narratives, offering a fresh take on one of Mexico’s biggest turning points.

4. Frida: A Biography of Frida Kahlo (1983) – Hayden Herrera

Like many Mexicans and visitors to Mexico, when I discovered Frida Kahlo I fell for her. I made La Casa Azul in Coyoacán, where she lived much of her life, one of my regular weekend meccas. I’d also stop by Leon Trotsky’s house a few blocks away, then head over to Diego Rivera’s studio in San Ángel. The guys were an afterthought—and, I guess, they were my competition—given my crush on Frida and admiration for her artwork and aura.

Herrera’s definitive biography of Frida Kahlo dives deep into her life, art, and the legacy that’s made her an icon. Hayden Herrera unpacks Frida’s lifelong battle with pain after a near-fatal bus accident, her rollercoaster marriage to Diego Rivera, her affair with Trotsky, and her place in Mexico’s art and political scene.

5. The Labyrinth of Solitude (1950) – Octavio Paz

I’ll warn you—Labyrinth of Solitude is not a light read, and there’s a reason for that: Octavio Paz is simply smarter and more knowledgeable about Mexico than the rest of us.

This book is one of the most important on what it means to be Mexican. In this collection of essays, Paz explores Mexico’s identity, shaped by colonialism, mestizo heritage, and revolution. He argues that solitude is central to the Mexican experience, with people wearing social “masks” to hide their true emotions. Deeply philosophical yet essential, this is a must-read for anyone trying to understand Mexico’s cultural roots and contradictions.

Where to Find These Books

We're heavy users of the Libby app, which lets you connect your library account (in US and several other countries), then check out eBooks and audiobooks for free and read them on Kindle. Since its not now possible to share links to the books in Libby, we are providing the Amazon links here:

• La Capital: The Biography of Mexico City by Jonathan Kandell

• Aztec by Gary Jennings

• You Dreamed of Empires by Álvaro Enrigue

• Frida: A Biography of Frida Kahlo by Hayden Herrera

• The Labyrinth of Solitude: Life and Thought in Mexico by Octavio Paz

Other Resources

• A Portrait of Tenochitlan – A Website with a 3D Reconstruction of the Capital of the Aztec Empire by Thomas Kole

Places Mentioned That You Can Visit

• Museo Frida Khalo – Frida Khalo Museum – Very popular, book in advance! (Coyocan)

• Museo Casa de Leon Trotsky – Leon Trotsky’s Home Museum (Coyocan)

• Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo – Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo Home Studio Museum (San Angel)

• Museo Templo Mayor – Aztec pyramid ruins uncovered by utility workers in 1978 with a lovely museum (Centro)

• Palacio Nacional – National Palace (Centro). To see the Diego Rivera mural tracing Mexico’s history, you'll need to take a free guided tour, which cannot be booked in advance online, but is reserved at the SHCP Art Museum. Strongly suggest confirming current visitor and ticketing policy as it may change.